How to fix a stripped screw hole in plastic

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I've stripped a screw hole in the plastic frame (ultralight). This is one of the two screws that holds the tail servo mount on the evoluzione style Protos max. I've heard of several methods of 'fixing' the stripped screw hole. I'd like to hear what others have used possibly in a similar situation. 1) CA the screw in (I don't like this since it's the tail servo mount and might need readjustment from time to time) 2) Dab some CA on the inside of the hole with a toothpick, let dry a few hours and then use as normal 2) JB weld the the hole and redrill 3) put some plastic shavings in the hole so that the screw bites again. 4) Put a length of zip tie into the hold (similar to 3) 5) Use bigger screws (may be self tapping?)

Which have you tried and has worked out well?

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That's the main reason I don't like using machine screws in plastic parts. It's too easy to accidentally strip them. Yes yes I know the whole 1/8 turn after snug thing but it still happens a lot.

I've done the CA thing and that usually works. But if you have a 7/64 drill bit the JB weld solution is probably your best bet... 7/64 in my experience is the best fit for M3 screws for a tight fit to replace old threads.

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#5 is my first choice. Self tapping usually still works in stripped machine screw holes in my experience especially on plastic parts that can deform more.

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Join Date: Jan 2009

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Self tapping works fine.

For the landing gear I use either m3x14 or if you are a skid bump fan like me and Myles, you may consider drilling all the way through and using a washer/nut. This helps when a skid bump becomes a "skid smash" which I tend to do.

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I used a tie wrap , on the aft landing gear strut, the screw didn't let go completely But I don't want to risk it.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by zomaar I used a tie wrap , on the aft landing gear strut, the screw didn't let go completely But I don't want to risk it.

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Well I have 8 flights now on my V2.. I really wanna "fly" her but I've got some bad head shakes during collective flips and maneuvers. . I have black head dampers.

Shakes happen during front flips or back flips at 1600 rpm and 1750 rpm.. I have lowered gain down to 25 and it doesn't seem to help. The shakes are pretty slow almost like a wobble, they are loud as well.. kinda scary I had shakes at 1900 rpm bad but gain is now 30 starting at 45 and it's much better almost non existent at 1900.. how low should I take the gain? I feel like this is mechanical but everything is tight and straight but.. I have about .5 mm of up and down play in my main gear is this normal? I didn't take it apart just but it in. 3rd bearing block is as tight as it can be to the main gear but main gear can still move up and down on main shaft.. I haven't pulled it out yet. Could this be it? Blade tracking seems spot on 0.1 deg of difference side to side.

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Cyclone 715's? Not running 7001 BK servos are you?

Gain should be ok in the 30's.

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Running cyclones 715, BK 7002s @8.2v are they too fast for the BRAIN?

Main gear ok with that slop .5mm? Gains at 25 for 1600 and 1750... keep going lower? I don't seem to be getting anywhere with it.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rb30cory Running cyclones 715, BK 7002s @8.2v are they too fast for the BRAIN? Main gear ok with that slop .5mm? Gains at 25 for 1600 and 1750... keep going lower? I don't seem to be getting anywhere with it.

You say main gear movement, can you grab the head and move the main shaft up and down? Where are you pulling to get the main gear to move?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rb30cory Running cyclones 715, BK 7002s @8.2v are they too fast for the BRAIN? Main gear ok with that slop .5mm? Gains at 25 for 1600 and 1750... keep going lower? I don't seem to be getting anywhere with it.

Or you setup way to much cyclic pitch. Should be 10 degrees.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap Cyclone 715's? Not running 7001 BK servos are you? Gain should be ok in the 30's.

I'm surprised your having issues with the black dampeners. They're pretty soft so double check that they haven't fallen apart on you. Some of the early kits had some issues with blade grip washers deforming under load and reducing the pre-load on the dampeners. This has been taken care of now with batch #2 kits.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap Lol. No. Servos are incredibly slow compared to processors. Ive had and seen many problems with the 7001. They were never good servos in my experience. I don't have any experience with 7002. Main gear is normal. Prob something in the head not assembled correctly. Or you setup way to much cyclic pitch. Should be 10 degrees.

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I'M going to try some 7002 also. I've had sets of 7001 that just we're not tunable. Other sets 7001 fine. I moved on swapped in different servos and was happy. More tempted to try the XPert R1 though. I tried a XPert r1 tail and was very happy. The price is brutal though. I'm building a max 766 (770 boom) and trying to decide on these 2 options. Probably go with XPert.

He dropped cyclic gain pretty far down and it still wobbled. Playing with gains might help but something doesn't sound right. Maybe the cyclic pitch is way too high or something wrong in the assembly of the head.

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oooh Xpert R1's! Yeah I might consider those when my heli debt is caught up

I got the 7002's for my new 600 class machine. I'll definitely be looking for something else on my next Protos Max kit...

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Maybe I screwed something up then.. I set collective pitch but never cyclic.. I will check tomorrow not sure how I missed it?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rb30cory Maybe I screwed something up then.. I set collective pitch but never cyclic.. I will check tomorrow not sure how I missed it? which # is it in the setup process?

I've been flying with a buddy of yours from Youngstown

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rb30cory Maybe I screwed something up then.. I set collective pitch but never cyclic.. I will check tomorrow not sure how I missed it? which # is it in the setup process?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmaxison Tab #7. I've been flying with a buddy of yours from Youngstown

Yeah sweet man he's a good dude. We started flying at the same time approaching 2 years now. He's been telling me about his West Side visits. Sounds fun! No heli pilots where I live, only heli owners.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap That will do it. Cyclic gain is directly impacted by the amount of cyclic pitch. Set it at 10 degrees. Read the directions carefully in the GUI.

Overall I'm very happy thus far it's a great heli!

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Wanted to give another update. Today it was pretty calm only 5 to 10 mph winds so I was able to really do some tuning on the Brain. During harder collective movements I would still get occasional wobbles.. so what I did was I had to still lower gain down to around 32, and pretty much followed Dmaxisons post above on lowering the forward feed to 10, and dropped my P, I and D gains down maybe ~15-25% on Alerion and Elevator. I also put my cyclic pitch to 8 Deg. Doing above pretty much appears to have remedied my wobbles at lower RPM. I put 6 flights on her today, my last one I did no tuning just flew and had zero wobbles during tick tocs, piro flips or another hard collective transition.

Thanks to all who helped fix this issue, I am loving the MAX!!

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Not sure why you would adjust feed forward in this situation? It has a lot more to do with feel. As its he amount of direct stick to cyclic. Also I don't understand why any I gain change was needed.

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For the people running bk servos, are you solid mounting or using groumets? If the ladder make sure they are torqued down enough and not able to rock the servo on the frame with little effort.

Something to check.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap Not sure why you would adjust feed forward in this situation? It has a lot more to do with feel. As its he amount of direct stick to cyclic. Also I don't understand why any I gain change was needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtown nick For the people running bk servos, are you solid mounting or using groumets? If the ladder make sure they are torqued down enough and not able to rock the servo on the frame with little effort. Something to check.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap Not sure why you would adjust feed forward in this situation? It has a lot more to do with feel. As its he amount of direct stick to cyclic. Also I don't understand why any I gain change was needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtown nick For the people running bk servos, are you solid mounting or using groumets? If the ladder make sure they are torqued down enough and not able to rock the servo on the frame with little effort. Something to check.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rb30cory Honestly OTS I have no idea what those even do.. it was more or less a "well let's try what worked for this guy" and it seems to have worked. I never had to do this much tuning with my Vortex's on any of my 5 helis with them... only lower gain to shake goes away. I just checked them they are rock solid. Everything is tight no play in anything in the head. Small up and down play on main grips when putting upwards or downwards force on them but from experience that's normal with dampners

Unless there was something else possibly overlooked the default settings in the Brain should be very close for the MAX V2.

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I just released the magic smoke from my Opto 160 while using the opto RPM cable to get the brain gov to work. I honestly don't know what I did wrong , I posted it in the scorp sub forum.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...30#post7071730

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I'm not 100% sure but I believe the only wire that should go to Brain Gov port is the signal wire.. On the Original brain I used a servo lead with the brain that just had 1 lead (signal) and plugged into power bus gov port with signal lead from esc plugged into gov power bus up front.

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well, On my Trex and X5 ( I think, cable is fully fleeved) for the Trex I'm sure => only run 1 wire because I verified it before I ran the opto cable. But I think I saw somewhere OTS/HighFreq/braindev suggesting and they recommend to also run the ground just to be sure, to avoid a drifting ground

This is what I did on the max.

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Join Date: Jan 2009

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I run the 160 opto through the opto coupler into the rpm port. The whole point of the opto coupler is that the isolated side uses ground and power from the brain... Signal is sent optically so the 2 sides are completely decoupled on the rpm wire. The throttle wire of course is coupled since it must be to have a valid throttle signal. But internal to scorp is should be isolated.

Maybe a defective isolator is my best guess. If the ESC still works you could use a Hyperion sensor on the motor wires to triage it if you don't want to send it in.

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well Yeah , The whole thing is just so bizar , I ran it like it should be even without the powerbus ( I don't believe it make any difference anyway ) , RPM out => opto => brain along side the max frame , holding the wire so it would not get into the main gear. while It was running Or it just burned up because of the very irratic RPM switched , which apperently happened because the Brain saw strange RPM levels.

I do run a XT60 between the main pack and my Bec and I tested the electronics and they are fine. I'm just a bit scared to powerup the ESC again.

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I have also run that exact configuration, Opto 160A scorpion with Opto coupler to the Brain governor port and it worked fine.

//Dennis.

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Man i just went back to radix blades. Its been along time since i flew them. I have to say they r crazy good blades. Quiet, fast and snappy and very very smooth. I know ive been through all the brands of blades and i will say without a doubt if your getting used to your heli and want new life, put some radix blades on your helis. Imho they r my favorite with halos a close second. My least favorite blades r zeal and cyclones. Zeals being too loudand fluttering and cyclones made my helis feel dull.

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I love the Radix 710 V2 blades on my Max.

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Wow. You got em too. You sure dont see em that much anymore. Its a shame cause its the best blade out there. No fancy paint or shapes just a solid blade that has incredible snap.

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Its funny out of all my heli gear its always the most basic dull looking gear that always performs the best. Ive had the fancy anodized servos with high godly specs but none of them compares to my flat black plastic futabas.

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I tend to agree on the cyclones. They are incredibly smooth and locked, but to me they feel like flying through molasses compared to other blades that I like. Some of the best pilots in the world swear by cyclones, so obviously they are good blades. I guess it just depends what kind of feel you like. I might try them again someday, but I'm pretty positive when I did try them, no matter how much cyclic pitch I gave it, or cranked up the rates, they just didn't move how I wanted. Always felt like they were fighting back during quick cyclic direction changes like fast tic tocs. Just can't quite "flick" it around how I like. For a more flowing, smooth style where one maneuver flows into the next, they seem to do great, but just not my style I guess.

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You have to learn to tune the fbl to the blades and see what you can get out of them. You can't just mount them on and judge them. With cyclone you need at least one extra degree of cyclic pitch compared to regular blades. Then they can achieve the full cyclic rates. On brain at 10 degrees with the 695 they can only hit about 320 deg/s. At 11 I can get 410 deg/s and they are insanely quick and efficient.

Probably this is why you have a belief that they are like "flying through molasses". You can't use a static setup and judge blades.

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By

Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap You have to learn to tune the fbl to the blades and see what you can get out of them. You can't just mount them on and judge them. With cyclone you need at least one extra degree of cyclic pitch compared to regular blades. Then they can achieve the full cyclic rates. On brain at 10 degrees with the 695 they can only hit about 320 deg/s. At 11 I can get 410 deg/s and they are insanely quick and efficient. Probably this is why you have a belief that they are like "flying through molasses". You can't use a static setup and judge blades.

All that being said, I did try radix v2 625's on my 6hvu and didn't really like them. Collective felt pretty sharp, but didn't really care for the cyclic.

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Try the halos they r extremely quick on cyclic but not the best for fast flight. For me its radix they actually made a difference that was noticable. The molasses analogy is a perfect description.

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Curtis arranged for these people to continue the Rave line of products. You can still buy Radix blades.

https://www.droneshelis.com

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that's where I purchased mine from. if your into cy helis then this store is a candy store. super quick and well stocked. ive been thinking of giving a rave a whirl

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I have two Raves and lots of different sizes of Radix blades. The blades are awesome and so are the Helis. Fly great, easy to work on, lots of room for batteries, simple and strong. I really like the Ballistic 700 and 635. The 635 is my favorite of the Raves. I like having different Helis to fly. The Max is totally awesome as well.

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How light is the rave 700 with 5000mah batts and typical 700 stuff

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If I remember correctly my Ballistic 700 with 5000 mah batteries is 11lbs 3oz ready to fly. Used a BEC instead of a receiver pack to save some weight during the build.

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oh wow. your kidding me right. now that's ideal for me. what esc and motor you using. hopefully big and big

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send me a pm on this please. I don't want to here the msh gladiators on this.

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My Ballistic 700 is 11.22 lbs ready to fly. The 635 is 10.48 lbs ready to fly.

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Put Radix 625mm V2 Blades on my Logo 600 SE today and it flies so nice. Made it feel like a new machine.

Flicked into idle 3 and didn't realize the throttle curve was a 100%

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dbirds2 send me a pm on this please. I don't want to here the msh gladiators on this.

You really put a lot of effort into tearing down and trashing the work that others put into bettering the hobby

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There are faults and or weaknesses with every design. MSH did their homework with the V2 and came out with an outstanding heli. MSH hit size, weight and design flexibility perfectly IMHO.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by pctomlin There are faults and or weaknesses with every design. MSH did their homework with the V2 and came out with an outstanding heli. MSH hit size, weight and design flexibility perfectly IMHO.

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Does anyone else's canopy fit like this?
For the life of me I can't figure out why it leans so bad, I have checked the screws for being bent, measured the hole spacing from one side frame to the other and at most it's only 1.5mm on the canopy holes! Just looks a little off when looking at it from the front!

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Is it looks like this when it's not mounted?

I wonder if it's a mount issue or permanent deformation...

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It does have the sag when not mounted but I would want to think it would be pulled into place with the mounting system!

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Magnetic mounts supports from only 4 points... They don't help too much to permanent deflections.

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Possibly the canopy grommets are not in the correct position (factory holes)

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Here it is off the frame!

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I've heard of people using a blow dryer / heat gun to soften a fiberglass canopy up and massage it back to shape.

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Probably just molded or holes drilled slightly off. +1 on trying to use heat to reshape it.

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Double post post post

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Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisl Here it is off the frame!

What did I win???

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I had one a little wonky. I put it in the heli and set it outside on a 100 degree afternoon. It reshaped itself accordingly

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Weird. It looks to me kind of like it was cut out wrong. Hard to tell from the pics though. It might help to take pics so we can see the whole canopy on the heli from the front and sides.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by zomaar Sideways batman What did I win???

I will take a few more pictures!

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oh wow haha. I get it now. I wondered what "sideways batman" meant.

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Lol, now that's funny!!

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Lol! It looks like a cross between batman and a squirrel that's collecting nuts for the winter.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected] Lol! It looks like a cross between batman and a squirrel that's collecting nuts for the winter.

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Thread Starter

Here's a couple more!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ultrataco

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I'm sure this has been litigated 1000 times here already, but I've just started pinching and the result was not what I expected. I've been flying helis only about 1-1/2 years and quads about a year before that, always with thumbs. In an effort to be more precise with my flying I decided to give pinching a try. Well, it turns out at 58 I have relatively little dexterity in my thumbs. The first time I tried pinching on the Sim I was able to do a funnel!!! I was never able to hold one steady before. I did another test, I fired up a small syma x5 quad in my living room, which I haven't flown in ages. As soon as it got up I switched to pinching and I was able to fly it up down hallways and into the next room and back with complete precise control. I'm sold!

By adding my index fingers to the sticks the resolution of the controls seems to have doubled or better. I suppose I could keep trying to train my thumbs, but this seems a much better approach. Just wondering If anyone has had a similar experience??

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Because it's idd the 1000th time, no back story, just everyone should decide what they want. It's not like a Heli setup where there is obvious right or wrong. I will just add :

I thumbed, now I soft semi-pinch (index finger barely touch and in extreme stick corners I release my index fingers)

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I'm mixed pinch / thumb too

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I pinch the collective and thumb the cyclic.

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@op how many variations do you allow in your survey???

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I'm a thumber, have tried pinching several times and don't care for it.

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Thumbs with a little index finger added when I want to stay extra tight. Pinching feels a little more precise but I can get the sticks to the corners/extremes much faster with my thumbs and it just feels more natural.

Plus "dumb pinched it into the dirt" just doesn't have the same ring to it....lol

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It seems a hybrid of thumbing with just keeping the index finger in the game for sensitivity is preferred. As I'm just converting I find reverting to thumbs at times is also a good method, although this may just be a mental bailout. I'm also finding how you hold the radio affects mobility of your fingers.

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Thumber, can pinch on the sim but would need way faster rates as I burry the gimbals thumbing and can't move that far when I pinch.

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Hybrid here as well, pinch the collective and thumb the cyclic.

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thumbs!

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Thumbs, but I'm working an index finger in on the cyclic to keep my thumb from slipping off doing right piro stuff... for whatever reason it works its way off the stick doing the CCW stir.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by smwht Thumbs, but I'm working an index finger in on the cyclic to keep my thumb from slipping off doing right piro stuff... for whatever reason it works its way off the stick doing the CCW stir.

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Thumbs. I haven't seen a reason to change and the act of pinching cramps up my hands.

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Thumb for me. I'm the opposite. I think thumbs have a big advantage in a lot of maneuvers.

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started as a thumber with planks but then switched to pinching when i started flying helis. I could see thumbs being better for stirring maneuvers.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin Broughton I'm a thumber, have tried pinching several times and don't care for it.

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I pinch but at full extension it can be difficult... So I prefer the fine control around center when pinching but I can se it's limitations when the control throws approach the stops.

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So far pinching, or some hybrid version (index involved), has it over thumbs a little better than 2 to 1.

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Thumbs +1

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I bought an Evo 700 full airframe kit at IRCHA today and sat down this evening to start the build. When I opened Bag F, I noticed that the pinion was the old style without the flange. I then sought out the main pulley and, sure enough, it was the old style also. All new kits, especially the Evo full airframe kits, are supposed to come with the newer pinion and main gear, correct? Are the newer parts available at IRCHA?

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Alan,
Stop by and we will get you the new gear and pinion.. Yes they are supposed to have both the new gear and pinion in the kits.

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Will do. I realized that I forgot to buy a Power Bus too.

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The kits are now available as an Evoluzione?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin Broughton The kits are now available as an Evoluzione?

MSH71507 Protos Max Evoluzione700 + BrainV2 Green

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap Alan, Stop by and we will get you the new gear and pinion.. Yes they are supposed to have both the new gear and pinion in the kits.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by acidla This stands also for the normal kits which have brain2?

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It's all sorted. Thanks, MSH crew!

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I was planning to turn my existing Max into a 780, but I want the lightweight lower frame on the Evo 700. So, I think I'll make my existing Max into the Evo instead. I just need to swap out the boom, head (for the red dampers), ESC, and motor. It should be quicker than swapping out lower frames.

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Anyone know?

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Excellent news. Thank you sir.

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. Does the new drive train use the same belt?

.

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It's not a new drive train. Just an updated main gear and pinion so that you guys can over tighten the c**p out of it without any side effect.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap It's not a new drive train. Just an updated main gear and pinion so that you guys can over tighten the c**p out of it without any side effect.

I set mine per the manual. And verified that it was not riding up on the bench. Is the setting in the manual tightening the crap out of it?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by vinnyd I set mine per the manual. And verified that it was not riding up on the bench. Is the setting in the manual tightening the crap out of it?

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I'm nearing 200 flights on the stock gear...don't believe I'll fix something that hasn't proven to be broken yet..
Good to know the option is available though..

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On 770 setup i was using 18t pinion, and the motor was in the further position, the belt still was loose and in 40 start i stripped it with full high pitch blade farts after a big inverted overspeed. now i went back to the 20 pinion, since its larger, and i van tighten the belt properly. But as soon as it appears in stores, i will order the new gears.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap No. Normally the belt can be fairly loose. Same with the new gear and pinion. But the goal is to try and kill all discussion about how to tension the belt. So the new main gear and pinion is designed to allow a huge range of tension to work effectively.

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Pinion has a top flange now. So it keeps the belt lower and doesn't allow it to ride too high on the pinion.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap Pinion has a top flange now. So it keeps the belt lower and doesn't allow it to ride too high on the pinion.

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Same question about the brain 1 and 2 at which point will the brains switch to the new version? And which flavor? The brain 2 non bt non HD?

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I'm nearing 70 flights on mine with no issues, won't change it. Is it healthy on the long run for the belt to ride on the top flange with more force pushing it upwards when it is set c**p tight?

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At some point kits will have the updated gear and pinion. But not immediately. Will be some time to phase in.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomy. I'm nearing 70 flights on mine with no issues, won't change it. Is it healthy on the long run for the belt to ride on the top flange with more force pushing it upwards when it is set c**p tight?

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Any updates?

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holding the belt even with the 10mm mark I can push it in 6mm with pretty firm pressure (see image). This was set to the stock position from day one. Over 50 flights with no issues or signs of belt wear what so ever.

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I see there is a now a sub-folder for the new Protos 380? When should we start thinking about the rumored 550? Be nice to have a larger single battery bird and I would prefer to avoid the TREX path. In my experience their Support is horrible.

I maidened my new v2 800 this weekend and its unbelievable assume.The sound is so cool with 800mm Zeals. No belt issues. No any issues. Me and my not-so-secret heli fund need to start planning our next adventure...

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Yes to a 550. I would build mine as 6s so I can use my Protos max batteries. 550 with a 600 tail boom.

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I'm really hoping for a platform that has the option of stretching to a 600. Really love that class.

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Yes... a 550 or 600 to replace my "old" X5 could be great...
Imagine a fleet with the 380, a 550 and a 780 ... all EVO's...

... I just have to think about selling all my Goblins (2x 380's and 1x 700)... they are collecting dust since I have my Max...

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am in for a 550 -600 stretch if its to be released by the end of this year , a scaled down version of the max v2 evo would be nice though

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Yes, a 550 with a 600 stretch would make a great 2016 Christmas present

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Join Date: Oct 2015

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But I want a 4th of July present........

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I would love to have the 550/600 option. That would fill the protos new line up perfectly (p380, p550/600/650, pmax v2 700, 770, 800). Seems like a good range in sizes w just a few models.

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If they do release a 550, I think it's pretty likely it will work as a 600. I think every 550 to 600 class out there is built around a 10mm main shaft, 8mm spindle. Pretty unlikely that it would be designed in a way that wouldn't be robust enough for a 600. All it takes is an optional belt, boom, and tail rod, so I'm sure they will take advantage of guys that want a 600 class, assuming the battery compartment allows for 12s. The other possibility is a 500mm class, but i thought Alex hinted at a 540mm 3 blade setup he was messing with.

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I gotta be honest...I wouldn't be disappointed in a 550 at all. But, I loved my little protos 500 so much I was kinda hoping for that to be refreshed--so long as it doesn't lose its spirit.

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I would like to see a 500 mm heli that could be stretched to 550mm with light disk loading that way you can stay with 6s lipos. Seems most 550 helis are porky and wear out 6s lipos fast. I have a diablo 550 which is just about perfect for 6s. Any heavier wouldn't be worth it.

A 500 mm protos with plastic grips main and tail with the option to stretch to 550.

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With the way MSH approached the 700, offering options to 770 and 800, I'd think a couple of stretch options would be more or less expected behavior rather than wishful thinking. But designing a proper 500 for a 600 stretch would make it porky. That's what I meant by leaving the current 500's spirit in tact. It needs to retain that light disc loading. So on that point I'm in complete agreement with you. On the other hand, the 500 market is kinda dying...going the way of the .60 class helis in the mid 2000s. Going with a 500-550 class Heli would leave MSH without a 600 class model at all. I guess that's the reason corrado gets to sit in the big chair. Either way it has me hoping for evolucionne canopy and boom, and a 3 blade head.

Quote:

Originally Posted by keither1984 I would like to see a 500 mm heli that could be stretched to 550mm with light disk loading that way you can stay with 6s lipos. Seems most 550 helis are porky and wear out 6s lipos fast. I have a diablo 550 which is just about perfect for 6s. Any heavier wouldn't be worth it. A 500 mm protos with plastic grips main and tail with the option to stretch to 550.

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Clearly Colin is sitting in the front row of the theater. While we all await some official MSH response.
Spill the beans Alex. I think you started rumor in the first place. Its been more then 20 minutes since you guys released something new. What's the delay?? lol

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Lol Colin. Same

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Well msh has left me broke right this minute anyway so I can wait a while for a new kit.

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Would love to see a Protos 550. That would definitely make me retire the Outrage 550.

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I love love the 550 size. Light loading. Aerobatic autos. Only a compact field needed. It's the ultimate versatile heli. :-P

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My trex 550 has 800 flts on it. Time to trade it in on a new Protos 550.

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I'm dreaming, but only if there were a nitro protos

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The Tail Pitch Lever Support is held on with a M3x14 hex screw. The M3x14 bolt bottoms out and allows the Tail Pitch Support Lever to move a bit. I thought I might be smarter than the manual and replaced it with a 12mm bolt, it didn't move any more but this caused the Tail Pitch Lever to bind when moving the Tail Pitch Assembly. I put the 14mm bolt back on and it is smooth as silk now, the Tail Pitch Lever Support moves/rocks a bit to avoid binding. Seems odd though after all the heli's I have built. Is this correct?

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Use the 12mm. It's allowed to be positioned a little so you should be able to adjust it to get it free.

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Ok thanks, it shouldn't move but I may have to play with it to get freedom of movement in the pitch slider before I tighten it fully. I'll go back to the shorter bolt.

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Now I know why the manual says to wait to tighten the tail bolts. I loosened them all and put the shorter 3mm bolt on and tightened everything up in small increments. No binding.

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Hello everyone, Today i decided to start building my protos max2... I wanted to build rotor head first...

But i have a problem... According to manual, bigger hole is inside, smaller hole is outside... First of all, there is no "O" or "I" letter on my thrust bearings...

More important than that, i have 3 smaller hole half, only 1 bigger hole half

So, what do you suggest? Continue build, or what?

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Groove width is 2mm on smaller hole halves...

At least 2.5mm on bigger hole half...

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That sucks man. I would get them to overnight you one I wouldn't fly it with the wrong races or you'll cause problems.

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I was ready... I was planning to finish the build this weekend... My camera was ready to shoot a time-lapse video... Now, i should order problem-free thrust bearings (-i hope-) from fastlad... Wait for one week to get them... (i dont want to pay 20£ dhl shipping for a 5£ bearing set)

Another disappointment then...

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Don't need I and O's on thrust bearings. Just put them on the spindle and rock them and it's dead obvious what's what. Also don't think you should pay for new thrust bearings. Maybe contact place of purchase and see if this is something they can get taken care of for you.

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QC issue, sucks but what are you gonna do? Seems like this kind of stuff happens more and more all the time I'm sure MSH will try to correct that ASAP for you, I doubt they are putting those bearing sets together. I saved the head for the last part of my build. Only thing left. Going out to the garage to check my kit right now!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by husafreak QC issue, sucks but what are you gonna do? Seems like this kind of stuff happens more and more all the time I'm sure MSH will try to correct that ASAP for you, I doubt they are putting those bearing sets together. I saved the head for the last part of my build. Only thing left. Going out to the garage to check my kit right now!

But this one is huge, i can not use my Protos500 spare parts

Meanwhile, i'm building up other parts, leave the rotor head for now...

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Why do you order it from anywhere? Go to the local bearing shop, it is standard size, an maybe cheaper.

Another: you dont have to have O and I signs. Just put the half bearing to the shaft. The one with bigger hole will be noticable much more loose on the shaft, the smaller will be barely move.

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About the I and O issue, it's not a big deal... Manual shows them (page 48), but there isn't any sign in reality... I want to inform about this...

Buying another standart size bearing? I don't know

I want to use MSH71076 labeled bearings... I don't want to deal with wobbles, vibrations etc.

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Just to inform you, helis would cost 2x as much if they were coming with good quality bearings.... buy japanese Ezo for example. They way better than any bearing comes with the heli.

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SAB goblin 700 uses same size thrust bearing if you have better availability of their spares, HC438-S ABEC-5 Thrust Bearing 10x18x5.5.

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Thanks for the info helibadger

Gaui x7 thrust bearings are the same too... And i can find its spare parts easily (there's a local store, selling gaui only)

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How tight is the Evo rear canopy mount bracket supposed to be where it attaches to the gyro plate? With the M3x12 screws specified in the Evo upgrade manual, they bottom out against the boom before they're tight. If I use 10mm long bolts, I can get the bracket tightly secured.

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There supposed to be 10mm. It was mentioned by Alex too. Just can't find where. Also Colin notated it in his evoice build thread.

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Yeah I noticed the same on my Evoluzione build. I can't find my build thread now tho

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Hi guys, I've already made a bunch of flights with this awesome heli (around 10-12) and I was too much taken by it to fix those little issues as this is my first 700! (coming from a 450 and a 500). Anyway, I have a little issue with the tail, it doesn't make the typical "wobbling" sound that require the gyro to be tuned down a little but when the helicopter is still the tail wobble a little bit, and when I try to stop it fast (with the hardcore 3d setup) it makes very hard stoppings. See it by yourself here (around 1m30s) Any idea what I have to do to fix both those little issues?

Thanks

Registered Users

Pretty hard to see what's going on from the video. Have you touched the advanced settings? Almost seems like the I gain is too high. That would cause a slow wobble in a hover as well as overshooting, causing the loud stops. Could also be too high of d gain. If you haven't touched the advanced tail settings, I would think your servo horn might be too long. How long is it? And what tail servo? Also make sure there is no binding.

When you say it didn't make the typical wobble noise, did you keep increasing the main gain? Like you went to max and it still didn't wag? If that was the case, it could also be that the horn is too short. Should be 15mm

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Q700
RCHN #232

Registered Users

Sounds like you need to tune the I and D gains. I gain for the slow wags, and D gain for the stops.

The gain in your transmitter is P gain only, not an "overall" gain

Registered Users

Thread Starter

Quote:

Originally Posted by quinn Could also be too high of d gain. If you haven't touched the advanced tail settings, I would think your servo horn might be too long. How long is it? And what tail servo? Also make sure there is no binding. When you say it didn't make the typical wobble noise, did you keep increasing the main gain? Like you went to max and it still didn't wag? If that was the case, it could also be that the horn is too short. Should be 15mm

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmtyndall Sounds like you need to tune the I and D gains. I gain for the slow wags, and D gain for the stops. The gain in your transmitter is P gain only, not an "overall" gain

Thanks

Registered Users

Typically if you are new to tuning I would adjust +/- 10% at a time

For example, if the default value is 50, you could go up or down by 5. Once you get used to tuning a system you learn which gains you can make bigger and smaller adjustments on

Registered Users

What is your servo horn length?

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Q700
RCHN #232